Elle
Elle.Stardoll
A Look from DVF, Matteo Volta/Imaxtree
It wasn’t just the American flags Diane Von Furstenberg handed out post-show that gave her spring collection an Americana vibe. The designer sent a parade of bee-hived models down the runway, marching to a cheerful soundtrack in white frocks, pastel florals and over-sized Marimekko-like prints in mostly unstructured, cocoon shapes. Eventually, there were metallic jacquard cocktail dresses and enough sequins to satisfy everyone’s inner party girl. Speaking of party girls, Nicky Hilton sat front row amidst a bevy of industry titans including Oscar de la Renta, Valentino Garavani and Rachel Zoe. Hilton, perhaps still in a daze from the “five or so” parties she hit the night before, wasn’t looking forward to any new trends in particular but did say, “I love that it’s just such a wearable brand and I really love the accessories.” We’ll second that—especially the robin’s egg blue clutch at left.
Click here to see all of the spring shows!
- Elle.Stardoll
Photo: Getty Images
Though Prabal Gurung, Nicki Minaj and florals have gotten their fair share of attention at New York fashion week thus far, the will he or won’t he rumors surrounding Marc Jacobs and Dior are leading the gossip pack. Neither LVMH or Marc Jacobs have commented on the rumors, which started about a month ago, but that hasn’t stopped WWD from spilling more details on the alleged negotiations. A source tells them that talks have turned tough—though not so tough that anyone’s giving up—as Jacobs and his partner, Robert Duffy, ask for $10 million. With couture collections added on top of ready-to-wear, as well as his own collections, Dior would prove substantially more work than Louis Vuitton and require more time in Paris for both Duffy and Jacobs—which means less time with the Marc Jacobs empire in New York. The fashion crowd may be obsessed with the move, and what it’d mean for the rest of LVMH’s brand, but investors are pretty nonchalant. One banks’ head of consumer brands said, “In this day and age, for a brand the size of Louis Vuitton or Christian Dior, we tend to believe that artistic directors only account for a small portion of the brand’s attribute. We therefore do not immediately factor in a change in artistic director into our valuation of the brand.”
- Elle.Stardoll
A look from Y-3's spring collection. Photo: Getty Images
There was no shortage of rock’n’roll references at the Y-3 spring ’12 show: The electrifying soundtrack, the Kurt Cobain-inspired plaid (one pair of pants fused together sweats with red checked fabric, making it look like the model had just pulled the ultimate ‘90s grunge move and tied her shirt around her waist), and yes, even massive arm tattoos. The front row reflected as much, with music progeny (Peaches Geldof) and hitmakers (Omarion) seated besides the likes of Samuel L. Jackson and Michael Pitt.
Also there was David Macklovitch, aka Dave 1 of Chromeo. As half of one of the catchiest electro-funk duos around, we had to ask: What’s his ultimate Fashion Week playlist? “I would put ‘Body Work’ by the Dream, ‘The Bay’ by Metronomy, and ‘Big Bad Wolf’ by Ducksauce. I think those three are cool,” said Macklovitch. He went on to add, “All three are fierce, to use an adjective that I will never use outside of Fashion Week; I go through the whole year never using the word fierce, but for this one week of the year I’ll describe these songs as fierce.”
Click here to see all the spring shows!
- Elle.Stardoll
Photo: Imaxtree
When the lights went down inside the Plaza Hotel’s ballroom last night for Thakoon‘s spring summer show the soundtrack said “Old Western” while the curated smell was more suited to an Indian spice market. The vibrant collection followed suit, starting with cowboy hats and yoked western shirts before morphing into sari-inspired dresses saturated in bright colors and flecked with gold. So how did the designer get from one point to the next? “I started with the whole cowboy thing,” Thakoon said, backstage after his show, “the idea of romantic America, this notion that’s sort of lost really, not America anymore but this coolness of cowboys, this free spirit. Then, when we were doing print research—looking at bandannas and paisleys—that kind of led us to India.” Like fall’s winning collection, which also merged two disparate cultures—the Masai and Versailles—it worked. The pink hair and colorful cowboy hats made for a fun runway experience but it’s the little dresses we expect to see everywhere come spring. “I always feel like I do red carpet in a way that’s not red carpet,” Thakoon said when asked about the collection’s Hollywood-potential. “It’s like our evening stuff is usually with flats.” Maybe that’s why we like it so much? As for exactly which fashion forward starlet he’d love to see don a spring frock first, he was speechless: “My brain is fried.”
Click here to see the rest of the spring collections!
- Elle.Stardoll
Jamie King & Emma Roberts at Jill Stuart's SS12 show. Photo: Getty Images
You could hear the collective gasp at the start of Jill Stuart’s show. No, it wasn’t the fact that a Ramones-centric playlist was soundtracking the designer’s ultra-feminine, bedtime-tropical dresses, but rather, that just about every shoe stomping down the runway was a winner. There were black patent sandals with gold glitter platforms (think of them as the warm weather version of this season’s Miu Miu), brown snakeskin strappy shoes with a neon pink band around the very base of the heel, and a pair of lip-accented Mary Janes among the line-up. The front row—Jamie King, Whitney Port, Cory Kennedy, and Harley Viera-Newton—looked like it was in the midst of a game of Telephone, with attendees mouthing, “I love these shoes,” to one another. As people filed out at the end of the shoe, “Oh-my-god-those-shoes!” became the constant refrain. But Scream 4 actress Emma Roberts, an avowed Jill Stuart fan, admitted that there was another shoe she would be lusting after while waiting for the spring ’12 designs to hit stores: “Isabel Marant boots,” she said. That’s not the only item on her fall ’11 must-have list: “There’s also an army green Proenza Schouler bag that I’m dying for!”
Click here to see all the spring shows!
- Elle.Stardoll
Oscar's clapping! Photo: OscarPrGirl
On Friday, the Oscar de la Renta team started a new Tumblr—ODLR Live. It’s the place to be to catch the show’s livestream at 6PM on September 13th, but it’s also a social hub for anyone, and everyone, interested in sharing their show experience. The team’s asked editors, buyers and even fans to help build content on the page, from what you’re wearing to the show, where they’ll watch it or why they love Oscar. Anything tagged #ODLRLIVE will be added automatically. And if you do tune in to watch the live stream, check in early for a live interview with Mr. de la Renta pre-show!
Click here to see all the spring shows!
- Elle.Stardoll
Photo: Imaxtree
Prabal Gurung‘s spring collection was a purple explosion. A marbeleized floral print dominated dresses, shorts, shirts and even jackets; there was delicate purple lace and purple sheath dresses with carefully placed cut-outs; purple tulle added volume to a few of the silhouettes and his finale dress looked like it was covered in purple confetti. Of all the details—Zana Bayne’s leather harnesses, Nicholas Kirkwood‘s towering platforms, Charlotte Tilbury‘s saturated lipstick—it was the hand-painted latex and embroidered metallic paint drips that made us want to reach out and cop a feel. You can see the latex at left. Before the show, backstage, Gurung told us he found an artist in Brooklyn to spray paint the ombre fade directly onto the latex. As for the pieces that actually looked like they were dripping in paint, each drip was hand embroidered with metallic thread. Click through for a closer look.
- Elle.Stardoll
Annabelle Dexter Jones walks Charlotte Ronson's SS12 runway. Photo: Getty Images
They may not be the biggest names, but the front row at Charlotte Ronson—a who’s who of It Girls, with Kelly Osbourne, Nicky Hilton, Joy Bryant, Margherita Missoni, Angela Simmons, Ellie Goulding, Sky Ferreira, and Whitney Port in attendance—is among the most loyal and enthusiastic. They’re friends-cum-fans of the New York designer, and aren’t quiet about their allegiance. Port and Hilton whispered about their favorite double-denim and dip-dyed pieces on the spring ’12 runway, while Simmons got reality TV star-turned-fashion critic Osbourne’s feedback on a pair of ‘70s prairie-style lace pants. They weren’t the only ones getting loud for Ronson: At the end of the show, sister Samantha Ronson interrupted her playlist with a big, loud airhorn and a fist pump as her sister took a bow. But the biggest crowd reaction was saved for Ronson’s half-sister and muse, Annabelle Dexter-Jones, who walked in the show. Her boyfriend, French graffiti artist Andre Saraiva, stood up and cheered, mom Ann Dexter-Jones laughed, and the rest of the front row whooped loudly. Annabelle gave a quick, shy smile and then kept walking; after all, it wouldn’t be a Charlotte Ronson show if there wasn’t some noise.
Click here to see all the spring shows!
- Elle.Stardoll
A look from Felipe Oliveira Baptista's first collection for Lacoste, shown today in New York. Photo: Getty Images
At the Lacoste show this morning, there were still the polo shirts and the crisp, tennis court-ready pants that made it a household name—but if the collection proved anything, it’s that the label isn’t afraid of change. The biggest transformation came behind the scenes, with Felipe Oliveira Baptista taking over the reins as head designer. For spring ’12—his first for Lacoste—he made his presence known through inventive silhouettes (think exaggerated armholes), reinterpreted fabrics (the signature pique dress was knitted in silk), and a renewed elegance (even the humble parka looked sharp). “We tried to make it very, very new and exciting,” explained Baptista backstage after the show, counting “the twist on cuts and the color-block” as two of his contributions to the new direction of the label. “But at the same time,” he added, “we took it kind of easy and can still find classic pieces. The traditional customer is always going to have their things.” That’s not the only way that the brand evolved this season; Baptista also downplayed the iconic crocodile logo. “It was because the idea was to make Lacoste something you can wear head-to-toe, and if you wear it head-to-toe, you don’t want 10 crocodiles on your outfit,” he said with a laugh. “It can still say Lacoste without a crocodile.” And while he noted that Lacoste’s roots would always be in tennis, he himself isn’t exactly the sport’s biggest fan. When asked who he was rooting for at the US Open, Baptista just shrugged and smiled.
- Elle.Stardoll
Alexa Chung at Vladimir Roitfeld's Richard Hambleton opening. Photo: Billy Farrell Agency
With fashion week comes fashion parties and judging from last night’s crowd, the industry was in need of some stress relief. Believe it or not, last night’s soiree circuit started uptown at Phillips de Pury for Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld and Andy Valmorbida’s Richard Hambleton retrospective. Thanks to the event’s other host—Giorgio Armani—many swans showed up to show off their best Armani pieces while circulating between two floors full of Hambleton’s work. The artist, who’s been called “the godfather of street art,” proved tempting enough to attract guests like Lauren Hutton, Karolina Kurkova, Bar Refaeli, Caroline Winberg and Doutzen Kroes, not to mention a downtown contingent including Theodora Richards in a barely-there catsuit, Alexa Chung in a quirky-cool dress with a cut-out neck, and Sky Ferrerira’s psychedelic frock.
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