The only person more excited than us about Miu Miu‘s fall show, held in Paris yesterday at the Conseil de Economique, Social et Environemental, was Kate Mara. It marked the actress’ first Miu Miu show, and the only one she’d attend all week, though it’s a longtime favorite brand. “Every time I go into the store, no matter what the season is, what that particular style is, I always find something that I feel completely comfortable in,” Mara explained. “So I think I just love the fit!”
Kara Mara and pant suits at Miu Miu. Photos: Getty Images

If, like Mara, you’ve become a fan of Miuccia Prada’s sweet dresses and playful accessories, you might need the next few months to adjust your eye to the pant suits the designer’s offering for fall. Every single look—save the last five—was a suit. They came in brightly colored (always matching) prints, or suede, with high necked blouses and ruffled ties. Chunky loafers and structured bags pulled the already polished looks together, while Bjork’s soundtrack brought a bit of 90s flavor to the 70s-inspired collection (and kept Marc Jacobs’ head bouncing in the front row). Whether stars like Mara, Katy Perry and Mia Wasikowska (both of whom also sat front row) adopt the head-to-toe prints come September may be up in the air, but those last five dresses? We doubt anyone will wait until fall to wear the darling mirrored suede shifts.

Photo: Imaxtree

After Louis Vuitton’s train extravaganza yesterday, one editor said, “Unless you’re going to stage a fashion show like that, throw a presentation.” Though yes, steamer trains and porters should be required at every fashion show, some don’t need bells and whistles to hold the crowd’s attention. Valentino, for example, sent out a slew of very simple looks so exquisitely made that it was hard not to reach out and touch them. The leather jumpsuit at left is the best example. While nearly every designer has shown leather for fall, few have attempted the leather onesie. In theory, it sounds like a disaster, but at the hands of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Peirpaolo Piccioli it’s as soft and feminine as one of their white lace dresses—with just a shot of rock ‘n roll. The show notes describe it best: “They indulge in tactile artisan craftsmanship while they reduce a line to its pure architectural essence.”

Photo: WWD

Yesterday, Suzy Menkes promised that Francois Henri Pinault would announced Hedi Slimane’s appointment to the house of Yves Saint Laurent this morning.  Indeed, WWD quotes the CEO of PPR’s statement: “As one of the most important French fashion houses, Yves Saint Laurent today possesses formidable potential, which I am confident will be successfully harnessed and revealed through the vision of Hedi Slimane.” The fashion world’s been trying to drag Slimane out of design retirement for years, making  his return particularly exciting.  However, as WWD points out, he’s never actually designed a women’s collection.  He oversaw men’s while at YSL and revolutionized menswear at Dior Homme.  Though he created plenty of one off suits for models and actresses, YSL’s resort collection—to be presented in June—will mark his first full collection for women. Though the article hints at one of many reasons Slimane didn’t accept the same position at Dior—”Among the sticking points was Slimane’s insistence on overhauling Dior’s extensive network of global boutiques”—it focuses on what he will do at YSL, mainly exert complete control.   Given his attention to detail at Dior Homme it’s expected he’ll have a hand in everything from advertising and store design to cosmetics and show production.  Expect YSL to be next season’s hottest ticket.

Hudson Kroenig at Chanel yesterday. Photo: Getty Images There was something elementary school-like about yesterday’s Chanel show, from the kids and the crystals to the references to movies like Superman II and The NeverEnding Story.  You can read proper reviews in the Times, but below you’ll find our two big takeaways. 1. Kids stole the show.  Before its start, a little girl in a pink fur coat reveled in the glittering sand floor and the giant crystal formations.  However, she didn’t just attract fawning attention from the front row, Bill Cunningham stopped to snap her picture.  Then, halfway through the show, Hudson Kroenig took a turn around the runway on the arm of Heidi Mount.  He wore a grey tweed jacket with crystal piping and swung a quilted purple velvet chain bag across his body.  The crowd swooned. 2. Chanel‘s bringing back the backpack.  Though menswear re-embraced the backpack years ago, women have pretty much left it alone (aside from the dozen or so girls with the Row’s crocodile version slung over their shoulder).  This fall, Karl’s offering a triangular version that zips down the middle and has a pocket on each side. It comes in pink tweed, purple velvet and grey jersey.  Watch out Prada, you have some competition.

Photo: Theyskens' Theory

Tom Ford, Karl Lagerfeld, Hedi Slimane: all three designers have tried their hand at campaign photography, whether for their own brands, or in Slimane’s case, other brands like Prada (though that could change with his new Yves Saint Laurent appointment). Now, a new designer has turned campaign photographer. Olivier Theyskens snapped Constance Jablonski for the moody new Spring 2012 Theyskens’ Theory ad, the model Tweeted. “What a pleasure to work w/ Him,” she added. And Theyskens isn’t totally camera-shy himself: he appears on the very right side of the campaign shot, reflected behind the lens.

Photo: Getty Images 9:45 AM

Walking to the Vuitton show, ticket in hand. A piece of paper shaped like a luggage tag with a string of leather woven through and a key on the end.  We’re going on a journey, but where?!

9:51 AM Everyone’s running into the venue.  Heeled shoes scamper across the wet gravel, probably belonging to editors who’ve missed the precisely on time show in the past. Inside, Sarah Jessica Parker’s already taken her seat in white lace dress and pumps from Vuitton’s spring collection.

10:00 AM The lights are still on inside Gare de Louis Vuitton.  With a giant clock, wrought iron ceilings and a soundtrack of whistles, engines and chatter, we’re surely inside a train station.  The middle of the stage is covered with thin black fabric and porters stand guard around its perimeter.  Espresso’s passed round in proper white cups and everyone wonders how Marc Jacobs will possibly top last spring’s carousel.

10:03 AM The lights go down and the gates open.  A cloud of smoke breaks through, an engine sounds and an actual train, painted purple with the Vuitton logo and a proper conductor blowing a diamond whistle, pulls onto the runway.  Before I can stop myself I yell out, “It’s like fashion Disneyland!” But it’s OK, because everyone is cheering and squealing with excitement. (See the video, after the jump!)


Photo: Getty Images

10:05 AM There are notes of Downton Abbey in the music, and the first model emerges from the romantically lit train followed by a porter trailing close behind, carrying two travel bags in one hand and a ladylike purse in the other.

10:10 AM The lengthened silhouette is similar to Marc Jacobs’ eponymous collection, with tall hats and sharp coats layered over stiff dresses and cigarette pants.  Nearly everything sparkles, whether from lurex or jewels sewn on in mosaic-like patterns or tinsel actually woven into the tweed.  “There is a humble, homespun appreciation of the applied arts in the naive complexity of textures and techniques,” Jo-Ann Furniss writes in the show notes.

10:13 AM Since each girl gets her own porter, and each porter carries at least two bags, this must be the largest number of bags ever shown on the runway.  Materials used for fall include crocodile, calf, goat, pony, ostrich, mink, seal and kangaroo, from which Jacobs’ accessories team whipped up hat boxes, weekend bags, vanity cases, valises, and decadent evening bags.  As Furniss writes, they’re “joyfully vulgar.”

10:15 AM The models take one last turn around the train without their porters—”merely added accessories”—before Jacobs pops out to wave hello wearing a trim black t-shirt dress.  If only he’d sat in the conductor’s seat.

Sarah Jessica Parker at Louis Vuitton today. Photo: Wireimage

Sarah Jessica Parker has completed a couple of forays into fashion — both democratic (her Bitten line from a few years ago) and more high-end (she served as president and chief creative officer of Halston until last year). But earlier today at Louis Vuitton’s runway spectacular, Parker revealed that her love affair with fashion isn’t over. She told WWD she was mulling a return to the fashion world, adding: “I don’t think my brief tenure [at Halston] would be called an exploration. I learned an enormous amount, it was invaluable, and I’m definitely curious about pursuing it, and we’ll see. I’m sort of figuring that out right now, actually, as we speak.” Although Parker gave no clues about whether she would be going the democratic or the luxury route, we can’t wait to see what she comes up with.

Photo: Getty Images

Stefano Pilati’s final Yves Saint Laurent show was yesterday. Today, Suzy Menkes writes that Hedi Slimane will be returning to YSL, confirming reports from last weekend. According to a senior executive at Yves Saint Laurent’s parent company PPR, Slimane will be named the brand’s new creative director tomorrow. The AP reports that YSL chief Paul Deneve made the announcement to staff today, but did not say when Slimane would start. Slimane left design to dedicate himself to fine arts and photography in 2007, although his return has been highly anticipated. He previously worked at YSL from 1996 to 2000, when he served as menswear director. This will be his first major foray into womenswear.

Photo: Getty Images

PARIS—Yesterday, Clare Waight Keller presented her second collection for Chloé. Like her spring debut, fall’s clothes are inspired by the laid back, bohemian style spotted at music festivals like Glastonbury and Coachella paired with the more sophisticated Parisian look that Keller’s adopted for herself since moving to the French capital from London. “I think the idea of these sort of parkas and big outerwear, this relaxed way of dressing is so relevant,” Keller said post-show, sitting in an abandoned front row seat in skinny grey sweats and a white tee with a slim black blazer and stark white oxfords. “I think it’s something about the attitude of that—which is what British style is about—mixed with this very polished French style.  The tension between the two is very strong.” Of course, given its presentation—on a runway in Paris in the Tuileries—the whole thing was a bit fancier than an actual festival, lacking both mud and Wellingtons.  But when asked, Keller knew exactly what she’d be packing for her next festival, “The big navy blue sheepskin is almost like a sleeping bag.  You feel absolutely beautiful in it, but at the same time it has this really sort of floppy spirit to it so you don’t feel very posh and dressed up and city.”  As for what else she’d pack, “Fun things to do with friends!”