Photo: Joann Pailey

That jacket above, from Olivier Rousteing’s second collection for Balmain, is the most expensive piece ever produced by the house—and Balmain‘s not exactly known for an accessible price point.  So if you’re looking to invest in a Faberge-themed jacket next fall, you better do as ELLE’s Market Director, Joann Pailey, suggests and “start saving your pennies!!”

At left, Thierry Mugler's 1997 Insect collection, at right, Nicola Formichetti's fall 2012 collection for Mugler. Photo: Getty Images

If last night’s Mugler collection looked familiar, it’s because Nicola Formichetti, presenting his third collection for the brand, was quite inspired by the archives of Thierry Mugler. The show’s notes specifically reference the 1997 Insect collection pictured at left, a show that obviously influenced the clothes, as well as the fringed nail tips, futuristic head gear, complicated walking patterns and mixed materials.  The notes call the archives “a place for the female ideal in superhuman proportions.”  You might not have to be superhuman to wear the dresses Formichetti showed last night—usually bodycon with cocoon shaped overlays, laser cut peplums and fringe—but you probably can’t be the girl next door either.

Photo: Getty Images

PARIS—As if to hammer home the Medieval theme of his fall collection, Guillame Henry staged Carven’s show in a beautiful convent in St. Germain this morning. The collection was full of what have become classic Carven silhouettes in the three years Henry’s led the house: nipped waists and full skirts, cropped jackets and short suits, but there were also fresh halter-neck shapes and balloon-like cocktail dresses with bouncing shoulders. “We really analyzed how they were dressed at that time,” Henry said after the show, referring to the Middle Ages.  “We thought, ‘Oh they look gorgeous! But how can we make them cool?’ That was the idea.” The young designer’s Medieval inspiration didn’t stop there, “Let’s talk about Hieronymus de Bosch, [Pieter] Bruegel for example,” he said when asked about the bright prints on skirts and crisp button down tops.  “In terms of colors, shapes and prints it was all about that.” If, for some reason, you aren’t swept away by the Dutch master-inspired prints (in which case, really? Look again!), you might be tempted by the laser cut suede dresses in black, navy and olive green that emulate the not-too-sweet, totally French girl Henry knows so well.

Courtesy of Viktor Luna Season after season we continue to see Project Runway designers make impressive marks at New York Fashion Week. Mexico-born  Viktor Luna, a finalist from last season, sent futuristic prints down the spring 2012 runway during the show’s Season 9 finale. For fall, Luna showcased his signature designs in a presentation styled by ANTM’s veteran judge Nolé Marin. The 31-year-old emerging designer embraced his rock-girl aesthetic throughout this collection. As a Fashion Institute of Technology graduate, Luna’s design background is apparent in his sharp blazers, and polished leathers and furs that are all tailored to perfection. His contrasting color palette of black onyx and rich textiles accentuated the collection’s silk-screened bottoms as if they were taken directly out of a work of art. The collection—with its edgy kaleidoscopic prints—is a solid sneak peek at what the most stylish personalities will be wearing this fall, or year-round for that matter. We can’t wait to see what’s next on the horizon for Luna!

Photos: Imaxtree

PARIS—Though Dries Van Noten‘s never one to shy away from a print, the designer really went wild this season, offering a variety of patterns in a swath of colors across his gorgeous fall collection.  While watching his show in Paris this afternoon, the following things popped into my head:

1. Those scarf tops from the early 90s, except so much better (and work appropriate).  Van Noten printed silk blouses, skirts and trousers with navy, blue and gold prints that looked like they’d been lifted off your all time favorite scarf.

2. Katsushika Hokusai’s wave print. Though it didn’t actually show up in the collection, wave-like crests were included in the blue and orange prints.

3. Dries Van Noten fall 2010. In between the Japanese-inspired prints, Van Noten offered his favorite color combination, black, navy and army green, often over white turtlenecks and once, with a leopard print bag.

4. Japanese screens. Those black lacquered paneled screens painted with gold birds and parasol-carrying women? Hello looks 4, 6 and 8.

5. Over-sized round lollipops. Though the faded blue, orange, green and purple stripes showed up on a handful of silhouettes, the dress in look 23 made the lightbulb go off: old-fashioned lollipops!

6. The Cookie Monster! If anyone does a story on runway looks that resemble Sesame Street characters (and we mean that as a good thing), Van Noten’s third to last look, topped with a shaggy turquoise fur, will be a shoe in for the Cookie Monster.

Photo: Getty Images

Alber Elbaz is celebrating a decade at Lanvin with a party directly after his fashion show tomorrow, but he told WWD he has trouble coming up with highlights from the past ten years: “No proudest achievements. Nothing is ever enough for me. I’m always thinking what is wrong, what needs to be fixed. I feel 10 years older, but no more relaxed.” He can sum up his design mantra, however: “I always say, “If you can’t eat it, it’s not food, and if you can’t wear it, it’s not fashion, it is something else.” As for his view on celebrity dressing: “I’m against running after celebrities. If they want us, they will know where to find us. … I let them have the choice to come or not come, to be or not to be.”

Photos: Britt Aboutaleb

It’s not unusual to see crews of artists inside the windows of luxury boutiques on a seasonal basis, but to see skilled artisans work their magic on scaffolding? Only in Paris — and only Louis Vuitton.  We stumbled across the not-yet open Vuitton Joaillerie store on the corner of the Place Vendôme on the Rue de la Paix after Balmain’s fall show.  At least six people were hard at work, affixing individual gold, pin-sized dots to the already sketched design.  If they put that much work into the cardboard barriers, we can’t wait to see what they do with the boutique.

Tory and Chris Burch in 2005, pre-divorce. Photo: Getty Images

Ever since Tory Burch’s ex-husband Chris Burch — who helped found her label, serving as chairman of its board — started opening a series of C. Wonder stores last year which emulate Tory’s branding, rumors have dogged the former couple. Late last year, reports began circulating that Chris was looking to sell his Tory Burch stake for $600 million, and that Tory was threatening legal action against Chris for copying her business plan with C. Wonder. Earlier this month, the litigation rumors returned. And now comes word that Chris has stepped down as co-chair of the board after being ordered out of a February 22 board meeting. He remains a shareholder and board member at Tory Burch, although Barclays Capital is said to be working on selling his shares. Tory is now the company’s sole chair. A source told the New York Post: “Tory is working with Chris to avoid more brand confusion. She is asking him to change his concept, which includes C. Wonder’s product, the design and the boutique. It remains Tory’s intent not to litigate — she is hopeful he’ll agree to change his concept. Litigation would be the very last resort.”

Daphne Guinness with Gareth Pugh at his Paris show yesterday. Photo: Getty Images

This Summer, Daphne Guinness will auction off 100 pieces from her personal closet to benefit the charity she set up in Isabella Blow’s memory. “The Daphne Guinness Collection: Sold to Benefit the Isabella Blow Foundation” auction includes designs from Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Balenciaga and will go on sale June 27 at Christie’s South Kensington in London. Just previous to the sale, Christie’s will exhibit the items to the public from June 23 to June 27. Guinness’s mission for the Isabella Blow Foundation, established in late 2011, is to support emerging talent at the intersection of art and fashion. A percentage of funds generated by the foundation will also go to mental health charities.