Costello Tagliapietra, Photo by Matteo Volta/Imaxtree

According to yesterday’s shows, laid-back luxe is next spring’s big theme. At Costello Tagliapietra, Tess Giberson, and Doo.Ri relaxed sophistication ruled—in fact, we may have even spotted a bathrobe turned evening dress at one… At Costello, fashion’s favorite burly duo took on the 30′s with fluttering sleeves and soft silhouettes, mostly fashioned in sandy tones with bits of kelly green and cerulean. A pairing of abstract floral-y prints (an modern interpretation of the decade’s sweet-pea fare) were manufactured using new Air Dye technology, an eco-friendly technique that reduces textile production’s pollutant  aftereffects. All of this was translated into the brand’s signature draped dresses that delicately emphasized the female form with that sense of Clara Bow knowing innocence. Doo Ri Chung also employed draping techniques, starting things off with a modified tuxedo shirtdress that was lightly gathered on the bias. Chung’s collection progressed with a series of louche pants and dresses, constructed of white poplin, linen tweed, and jersey—some embellished with string. Cutting through the airy whites were silkscreened stencil florals and injections of ’ultra-violet’ and ‘citron,’ an attempt at updating the designer’s trademark draped cocktail wear—a simplistic formula that doesn’t really need much tweaking. Rounding out the group was a great, focused collection by Tess Giberson, whose downtown ease was evident in multiple pairs of printed sheer palazzo pants and lightweight haphazard knits affixed to mesh T shirts. The most covetable of Giberson’s pieces were easy monochromatic suits and oddly enough, an oversized blue anorak—the kind of quintessential spring pieces that any girl could throw on for every occasion.

Click here to see all the spring shows!