ELLE & ELLE girl
Elle.Stardoll
Photo by James Medcraft
The 2nd annual Creators Project took over Brooklyn’s DUMBO neighborhood this weekend, sending its usually family-filled cobblestone streets into an artistic frenzy. While it was more serious than last year’s open-bar event, the sober crowd consistently raved about one installation in particular—Barney Clay’s reworked music video for David Bowie’s, Life on Mars. Shot by the legendary photographer, Mick Rock in 1973, the video shows Bowie in all his heyday glory—blue eyeshadow and matching wool crepe suit included. Now reworked by Clay—a well-known filmmaker and the husband of Yeah Yeah Yeah’s Karen O—the video has been turned into a digitized work of art. Bowie’s larger-than-life persona’s projected onto a two-story high cube, circling around an audience that gapes in awe from its center. This afternoon, we got a chance to chat with Clay about the piece…
- Elle.Stardoll
Paul Smith takes a bow (or a fist pump?) at the end of his show in Tokyo last night. Photo: Getty Images
Make your way past the street style photographers, the greeters handing out the latest copy of WWD, the video of Jessica Stam being photographed by Terry Richardson atop a Mercedes-Benz, and the floor-to-ceiling ads for Maybelline featuring the faces of Charlotte Kemp Muhl and Christy Turlington, and you’ll finally arrive at the main runway. No, this isn’t New York Fashion Week—rather, it’s Tokyo’s new and improved Fashion Week. The biannual event, which kicked off yesterday, nearly didn’t make it. Just seven months ago Japan Fashion Week’s fall 2011 was canceled. It was scheduled to start just a few days after the devastating earthquake and tsunami that hit the Asian country back in March and aside from the obvious tragedies, and the somber mood that spread across the country, sewing and production plants were drastically affected and it wasn’t quite clear if designers would even be able to make a spring ’12 collection.
- Elle.Stardoll
A design by Romania's Andreea Musat
To most fashion-concerned Americans, rugby’s little more than an diffusion label that’s part of Ralph Lauren’s gargantuan empire. So it may come as a surprise to hear that the Rugby World Cup is the world’s second most-watched sporting event. The popular tournament is coming to a close in New Zealand next weekend and surprisingly enough, its culmination is being celebrated with a fashion show. Taking place in Auckland near the cup’s main stage—the show, called Style Pasifika is an annual event that was tied to this year’s rough-and-tumble tourney. It will feature a garment from most of the championship’s member nations, each one created of prized New Zealand wool. While the USA was kicked out early on, it’ll still be represented in the show with an ensemble designed by Julie Chaiken of Chaiken & Capone—a label that’s well-loved for it’s sophisticated and simple sportswear. ”They were looking for a designer typical of each country who could help promote New Zealand’s fabric industry,” Chaiken explained. She’s created a blue shift and charcoal double-faced wool trench coat for the show, “I made the dress in blue instead of a whole outfit of red, white, and blue, because I definitely didn’t think that was something typical of American sportswear.” Chaiken will share the runway with Japan’s Yohji Yamamoto, Ireland’s John Rocha, and England’s Elizabeth Emmanuel, who designed Princess Diana’s wedding gown. While each of the looks are a one-off, they’ll be part of a public exhibition that’ll promote rugby and the nation’s fine merino wool. “Outside the US, American fashion doesn’t have the same impact. Good American design isn’t necessarily trendy and has staying power, I don’t feel like fashion from all over the world is that way,” said Chaiken. Other countries on the show’s roster include nations diverse as Fiji, Namibia, Tonga, and Samoa, and they too will provide domestically-designed garments constructed of New Zealand textiles. So perhaps it’s time to start paying rugby some attention—beyond the masquerading racks of cotton jerseys.
- Elle.Stardoll
Carine Roitfeld finally offers her two cents on the Dior situation (which, really? Still no answer??). The former editrix thinks Marc Jacobs is a great idea, but worries no one wants the job now that every single name’s been dragged through the gossip heap.
- Elle.Stardoll
Photo: iStock
At the risk of sounding ungrateful, I have a few thoughts regarding this potted-orchid-as-a-thank-you tradition we have in the fashion industry. I only bring it up after taking a stroll through the ELLE halls and seeing desk after desk cluttered with once-regal white orchids in varying states of decay, slowly meeting their demise under the unflattering, and certainly inhospitable climate born of fluorescent lighting and 68-degree closed-circulation air. Don’t get me wrong, orchids are beautiful—I love them. But they’re Daphne-Guinness-level fragile, in need of elaborate care for mere survival. (Were it that they, too, could exist on Guinness’ potent combo of Ensure and Red Bull.) My mom, an orchid lover who owns at least ten, follows a strict spritzing schedule and has to special-order their (expensive) food. Some experts even recommend talking to them to stimulate growth. And before all of that, I’m pretty sure you’re supposed to transfer the orchid from the glass cube in which it’s delivered into a big, comfy terra cotta urn—stuff’s no joke! As we editors watch the blooms wither and fall off, the waxy, wide leaves becoming spotted (stricken with some sort of plant disease, PERHAPS?), it serves as a searing reminder of our irresponsibility—we can’t take care of a goddamn thing, can we? And we’re almost thirty years old!!—and of our own mortality. I’m burdened with these thoughts as I sit at my desk trying to scribble out 150 words about a clutch. But I think have a solution…and fortunately there’s an eco angle. (Magazine editors love an eco story.) Start a community garden with all of the potted orchids that fashion people let die in their offices. You open up this courtyard to underprivileged children and seniors—let them take care of it! Have Zaha Hadid design the park benches and maybe we commission Banksy to paint a few botanical murals. Make it a fashion thing. Or, we get DVF to plant them on the Highline right outside her Meatpacking studio? They may not be indigenous species like the rest of the flora there, but a) they’d be recycled and b) off my desk, which would be a gift to both editors and the earth, right?
- Elle.Stardoll
From left to right, Oscar de la Renta, Wes Gordon, Viktor & Rolf, and Theyskens' Theory. Photo: Imaxtree
Not to give Kate Middleton too much credit, but the abundance of ball gown-chic on the runways might have been thanks to a sort of ‘princess effect’. Though hemlines were long and skirts full, designers didn’t quite follow her recipe of ‘less is more.’ Instead they created interesting garments often filled with naughty details and replaced the pashmina (or fuzzy cardigan in Middleton’s case) with a crop-top or two. Peter Dundas created an empire-waist sinister bride for Pucci with dead weather eye makeup and gothic gypsy jewelry. Viktor & Rolf’s collection also had menacing elements, like a gown with an overlying lace-up corset. Jason Wu and Oscar de la Renta’s were luxuriously voluminous, Wu’s a bright bubblegum pink and Oscar’s topped off with a cropped lace tee. Giles Deacon’s decidedly dressed-up collection included Bjork-like swan embroideries while a dress at Theyskens’ Theory was virtually see-through. Click here to see all of the spring 2012 Collections!
- Elle.Stardoll
Photo: Maiyet
Now that Paris fashion week has come and gone it’s time to take a closer look at a few of its under-the-radar highlights. Two brands, Gabrielle Greiss and Maiyet, have the fashion pack particularly excited. Gabrielle Greiss, formerly creative director at Sonia Rykiel, has started her own label that’s filled with sweet, haphazardly layered dresses that are like t-shirts gone glam. The combination of her feminine aesthetic and neutral palette will appeal to the Paris-obsessed girl who dreams of both Isabel Marant and Carven. This collection, her first, is comprised of just twenty dresses. Also showing for the first time was Maiyet, a label that while designed with fashion domination in mind, is manufactured by specialized artisans in Africa, South America, and Asia—and founded by a human rights lawyer. Though a design team leads the collections (or collection, at this point) the clothes are produced by an international force of skilled artisans who’ve developed brilliantly embroidered dresses and well-tailored trenches. Paul van Zyl, the lawyer, co-founded the line with Kirsty Caylor, who developed Gap’s Product (RED) collection before working at Band of Outsiders and the two are hoping to “see a virtuous circle of prosperity, investment and employment, and a return to the artisanal roots of luxury.” Look for both collections in stores this spring.
- Elle.Stardoll
Photo: Getty Images
Calvin Klein might be known for re-defining American style and pushing the envelope as far as provocative advertising goes—but the man is not known for granting interviews, at least lately. Instead, one’s more likely to flip a magazine page and find Francisco Costa chatting about his modernist take on the classic brand (like in our November issue, with Chloe Moretz). But Klein himself will be in the hot seat next Monday October 17th when he sits down for a talk with Fern Mallis, the former head of IMG Fashion Week (and current consultant). Mallis may be well loved by the industry but we expect her to ask some tough—and interesting!—questions of the design legend. She says they’ll talk about everyting from his childhood in the Bronx, to his earliest collections, celebrity clients, and career highs—with at least a few minutes devoted to Marky Mark! The two will chat at the 92nd Street Y in New York City at 8PM. Tickets are being sold for $29 online, or by calling (212) 415-5500.
- Elle.Stardoll
Photo: Getty Images
Kanye West and Maroon 5 will perform at this year’s Victoria’s Secret show, airing on CBS on November 29th. What, you might ask, do they have in common? Well one is definitely dating an Angel—and the other probably is. Adam Levine’s been dating Anne V for for almost two years (this summer, there were rumors of an engagement) and Kanye West has maybe been seeing Chanel Iman since May’s CFDA Awards. So there’s a chance they all hang out in Angel heaven? Of course, the two performers needn’t have anything in common. Last year, Katy Perry and Akon shared the stage. According to The Fashion Spot, other Angels include ELLE’s October covergirls Miranda Kerr, Doutzen Kroes, Adriana Lima, as well as Alessandra Ambrosio, Candice Swanepoel, Erin Heatherton, Lily Aldridge, Behati Prinsloo, and Lindsay Ellingson. Fashionologie has some costume sketches to tide you over.
- Elle.Stardoll
Olivia demonstrating how to wear leather shorts.
Since Olivia Palermo stopped filming The City, almost a year ago, she’s mentioned plans to star in a new TV show and launch a fashion blog. While getting those going, she’s shot ads for Mango, guest judged for Project Runway and become the new face of Mediterráneo jewelry. But on Friday, she finally did launch that blog, called Olivia Palermo, with a staff of at least five full-timers and eleven contributors (including ELLE’s Kyle Anderson). Palermo opens the site with a note outlining her plans for the site, “Providing a forum to express my fashion inspirations from across the globe, it is my goal to show that style is international.” She says she’ll talk about her trips to London and Paris, her vintage finds and how to turn “jeans and a tee into a red-carpet worthy look on a daily basis.” So far, Palermo’s staff has posted rules for wearing leather shorts, “Add an element of surprise to an outfit by adding tailored feminine pieces like a gauzy button-down or a ruffled blouse,” and written in favor of the Stubbs and Wootton slipper over the ballet flat with this sort of strange disclaimer, “You can also choose to have your Stubbs & Wootton monogramed [sic] with your initials in silver or 18 karat gold. Just keep in mind, you’ll need to tell the boy you meet post-Block Party your real name now, or at least one that begins with the same letter.” Today, Palermo wrote about London Fashion Week and hinted at “a few projects that you’ll be seeing and reading about soon.” Have you read the site yet? What do you think?
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