From Prada's spring collection. Photo: Imaxtree

Underneath the gloss of Fashion Month there’s been a sort of international war raging over the dates of the spring 2013 shows (taking place next September, in 2012). Two years ago, the CFDA, the British Fashion Council, the Chambre Syndicale and the Milan Chamber of Fashion met to establish a list of guidelines regarding the international fashion calendar. It was decided that New York Fashion Week would always start on the second Thursday of September. Given the shifting calendar, sometimes that would mean right after Labor Day and some years nearly two weeks after. Next year, it’d set the shows later than ever, on September 13th, pushing London’s start date to the 21st, Milan’s to the 26th and Paris’ to October 2nd. But the Milan Chamber of Fashion is fighting the calendar, saying they were under the impression the agreement was only in place for three years, and that they were in fact entitled to earlier show dates. They wanted to set the Milan collections—including heavy hitters like Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Prada—to September 19th to 25th, directly overlapping with both New York and London.

From left to right, Rochas, Prada, Louis vuitton, Dolce & Gabbana, Jason Wu. Photos: Imaxtree

Call it the Lady Gaga effect if you must, but hot pants have been around long before the pop princess’s first stab at public indecency. In fact, every year they pop up on a runway or two, but it’s only now though that prim designers like Jason Wu and Rochas are incorporating the look into their collections, lending some risque drama to an otherwise politely polished season. Target‘s latest collaborator paired his pants with a dove grey anorak and sweet button up. Dolce & Gabbana went the organic route—plastering theirs in a Sicilian tomato plant print, while Marco Zanini took a classic approach at Rochas, using a mod tablecloth plaid. Miuccia Prada’s ode to 50′s glitz didn’t fall short on hot pants, though her’s were in onesie form, nipped at the waist with a rhinestone belt. Jill Stuart and Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton used candy-colors to sweeten up their abbreviated shorts, paired with soft eyelets and ruffled organza. Time to start working out those legs ladies!

Wow, what a few weeks it has been! I feel like I’ve abandoned all of you as soon as fashion week ended, but the truth is I’ve abandoned everyone! I have been working non-stop since we had our show on September 12th (well, really a few weeks before that). There were press appointments the day after the show, followed by preparation for Capsule (a sales show) and then sales follow up. NYFW was extremely busy for me this year as I had an event for Fashion’s Night Out, designed a heat transfer illustration for a booth for Rowenta at the tents at Lincoln Center, plus some Project Runway events.

From left to right, Versace, Alexander McQueen & Chanel. Photos: Imaxtree

Come spring, designers draw inspiration from florals, forests and sometimes surf, but for 2012 a handful dove deeper—to the bottom of the ocean floor. Though not all were as literal as Chanel, which turned the Grand Palais into a whitewashed aquarium, the sea made its way into at least four collections. Lagerfeld used pearls on almost every look and turned conch shells into evening clutches (how has no one thought to do that before?!) while Sarah Burton infused waves, jellyfish and sea anemones into most of her collection for Alexander McQueen. At Versace, above left, Donatella was more playful. She printed purple starfish and blue seahorses onto hot pants and shift dresses or studded starfish shapes onto leather bodices. And lastly, at Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci took that mermaid inspiration that Lagerfeld was so disinterested in and turned it into something quite attractive: scuba-like pants, dresses with fins and jackets layered over silk to look like waves. Click here to see all the spring collections!

Photo: Getty Images

Marc Jacobs staged what many believe to be his last show for Louis Vuitton in the courtyard of the Louvre in Paris this morning. Like last season, Kate Moss closed the show—”I have an attitude about being consistent,” he said—but the similarities ended there. Instead of handcuffs and latex bondage-like dresses, his models wore poufy light frocks with 60s details like floral appliques and faded pastel panels with white heels and ladylike purses. The show itself was set on a carousel, “I’m a hopeless New Yorker Franco-phile,” he said. But the big question was, of course, whether or not this really would be his last show for Vuitton. Though reporters were forbidden from asking about the rumors, Jacobs did drop a few hints. The Telegraph caught him on camera saying, “I could never do this anywhere else. Not just the Paris thing, Vuitton allows me…” before trailing off. He also mentioned, regarding Kate, “We’re going to consistently close the show with Kate Moss,” which suggest future Vuitton shows. He also said, regarding the success of Vuitton’s ready-to-wear collection, “It’s really something I feel particularly proud of.” So really, we’re no closer to knowing the answer. Paris fashion week has come and gone and there’s still no word who will take over at Dior. But given the critical reaction to Jacobs’ spring collection for Louis Vuitton, his staying put wouldn’t be the worst outcome. Click here to see all of the spring collections!

Do you feel it? The chill in the air? With Columbus Day weekend coming up, it’s right on schedule (hands up if you’re going apple picking!). Actually, it’s going to be a warm weekend here in New York City, but that’s not stopping us from scouring the web for fall’s coziest knits. Check out ten pieces we’re eye-ing right now:

Keren Craig, Georgina Chapman & Michelle Monaghan at the Whitney. Photo: BFA

Last night’s chilly autumn weather was deceiving, given the atmosphere inside the Whitney Museum’s Studio Party. It was most aptly described by artist and party host Nate Lowman as “kind of like a prom.” The three massive disco balls hanging over the ready-made dance floor, which was surrounded by black leather couches and a bar covered in punch-filled crystal bowls, really did feel like fancy high school. Adding to the vibe? Questlove DJed a slew of 90s era prom classics (to which we danced with China Chow who revealed a razor-sharp knack for naming that tune). Taking a much needed breather with party host Kalup Linzy—whom you most recently saw collaborating with James Franco on that EP, Turn It Up—we were happy to learn that the soap opera-obsessed art star’s in good spirits after his brief hiatus. “I’m getting into a good flow now,” said. Does this mean there’s more Franco-llaborations to come? We found artist Ryan McNamara (also a host) grabbing three mini-margerita pizzas as they passed and still looking svelte in a Jil Sander suit. The performance artist told us “I was too busy talking to everyone during the Gala to eat! I was only able to get dessert.” Most of the glitzy crowd, however, was less interested in the food than the clothes. Marchesa was the party’s fashion sponsor which meant there was a trail of feathers, tulle and sequin wherever you looked—always the sign of a good time.

On the left, Emma Stone shot for ELLE by Carter Smith. On the right, at last night's premiere of The Help. Photo: Getty

Last year, when Versace named January Jones their new face, we felt a small burst of pride over having introduced Donatella to Jones in the first place. When Taylor Swift showed up at the American Music Awards sporting newly straight hair, styled just like her ELLE cover shoot, we were thrilled to see the singer debut the look in real life. And last night, when Emma Stone walked the red carpet at the UK premiere of The Help in the black and white Luca Luca dress, above left, we thought, “Hey! That looks familiar!”  Before fall’s polka dot trend landed on the streets, Joe Zee styled Stone in layers of black and white dots from designers like Stella McCartney and Marc Jacobs for our August issue. The look’s received mixed reviews, but we’re fans of Stone’s consistently creative and flattering red carpet looks. What do you think of the spotted dress?

As usual, Paris showcased the most imaginative, visionary, and impossibly gorgeous collections. This round up was a tough one, but based off the above descriptors, we’ve picked ten of our favorite looks from the Paris runways.