Photo: Troa

Seoul-based journalist Michael Reyes is profiling some of today’s most notable Korean designers. Here’s the third installment. Seasoned Korean designer Han Song’s inspiration for S/S 11 celebrates the organic beauty of insects, an unlikely yet delightfully enchanting specimen for heightening this designer’s intrigue. The skills he acquired of sketching and draping at Parsons in New York is reflected elegantly with special attention to the signature pieces in his collection: beetle wings, and voluminous silhouettes reminiscent of flying anthropods. Exaggerated volume noticeably presented with skirts this season, also calls to mind butterfly wings, dramatically contrasted with slim tops and bold, colorful leggings that mimics the physique of the prettiest bug. Sheerness and layering enhances the theme; full skirts in translucent fabrics such as woven silk organza for instance being worn over pants distinctively maintain the flow with shirts in metallic, iridescent materials referencing intriguing exoskeletons inspired by cicadas.

This imagery is meant to suggest the strong, and graceful beauty of the TROA woman. Black tones, and beige shades are the principal palettes this season, however electric blue, and orange are injected into the collection for striking effects. An appealing feature of TROA is the designer’s almost exclusive use of “Hanji” paper, a Korean fabric traditionally derived for centuries from mulberry trees, incorporated yet again in the body of the clothing. A signature, sleeveless “Transformer Jacket” doubles as a cape and is made from 100% hanji fabric accented with tucks instead of darts, and pleats to highlight its organic charm. Han Song’s insight into hanji explains that the material is “closer to cotton than silk, but still different from cotton. It’s slightly more rougher but very comfortable. It is also noted for its cooling qualities.” The beige and black pieces reflect the collection’s variety of textures this season while the use of feathers maintains the theme of insects.

Another curiously attractive feature of the label is its commitment to celebrating traditional Korean dyeing methods for its color palette. Han Song insists that this season “is a very, very Korean collection without being obvious. This is not an ethnic collection but the root of it is Korean tradition.” The spirit of these elements is a one of a kind, contemporary, “Korean avant-garde” collection that beautifully joins Korean tradition, fantasy, and modern ecological appeal for casual, comfortable looks. This season, TROA introduces a line of accessories. Bags, and backpacks with plaited straps and umbrella cases are all created using naturally dyed hanji fabric, giving them a unique texture and feel.